22.4.09
ECUADOR Marzo 2009
We’ll begin with an overview of our trip to southern Ecuador
Thursday March 19th.
Our COPA flight from New York to Guayaquil, Ecuador stopped in Panama City’s Tocumen Airport, as do most COPA flights, so we stretched our stopover to spend six hours birding in the Panama City district of Panama. A fascinating destination for birders due to big species diversity in a small country - over 970 species have been recorded within its borders. This is largely due to its biogeographical situation as a bottleneck between North and South America.
Our COPA flight from New York to Guayaquil, Ecuador stopped in Panama City’s Tocumen Airport, as do most COPA flights, so we stretched our stopover to spend six hours birding in the Panama City district of Panama. A fascinating destination for birders due to big species diversity in a small country - over 970 species have been recorded within its borders. This is largely due to its biogeographical situation as a bottleneck between North and South America.
In planning for any of our birding trips, we spend time at home researching birding locales and choosing a good field guide. A Guide to the Birds of Panama by Robert S. Ridgely and John A. Gwynne, Jr, and A Bird-Finding Guide to Panama by George R. Angehr, Dodge Engleman, and Lorna Engleman were all we needed to get the most we could out of our short visit to Panama.
Since our flight would arrive in the heat of the late morning, we had advice that the famous Pipeline Road might be pretty quiet and opted instead to head to the hills. The Bird-Finding Guide gave directions and information about nearby Cerro Azul, and we felt fairly confident that we could make the trip on our own, without the assistance of a local guide.
Our first Panamanian birds, seen around the airport were:
1. Fregata magnificens, Magnificent Frigatebird, Ave Fragata, at eye-level from the plane as we approached Tocumen Airport
2. Egretta thula thula, Snowy Egret, in the marshy green spaces between runways
Within an hour of arrival, and for a little more than $40, we rented a 2009 Hyundai from Dollar Rent-a-Car at the airport, and with Bird-Finding Guide in hand, hit the road. The next birds, seen while leaving the airport, were:
3. Cassidix mexicanus peruvianus, Great-tailed Grackle
4. Zenaida macroura marginella, Mourning Dove
Cerro Azul, Panama
The directions and information in Angehr and the Englemans’ book were more than good, they were superlative, and dead-on accurate. Birds seen on the roadside power lines along the winding road which climbed Cerro Azul were:
5. Philohydor lector panamensis, Lesser Kiskadee
6. Myiarchus panamensis, Panama Flycatcher
Our first serious birding stop was Las Nubes, a quiet neighborhood of small homes and gardens, but just before turning off the main road into this residential area, we had:
7. Tangara gyrola delecticia, Bay-headed Tanager
8. Thraupis episcopus, Blue-gray Tanager, both in roadside trees
9. Eleanoides forficatus, American Swallow-tailed Kite, soaring overhead, along with
10. Cathartes aura, Turkey Vulture, Buitre Cabeza roja
11. Coragyps atratus, Black Vulture, Buitre Cabeza negra
In a backyard garden in Las Nubes, a sprinkler was running, which attracted lots of bird activity. There alone, we saw:
12. Tiaris olivacea pusilla, Yellow-faced Grassquit
13. Thraupis palmarum atripennis, Palm Tanager
14. Ramphocelus d. dimidiatus, Crimson-backed Tanager
15. Tangara launata fanny, Golden-hooded Tanager
16. Tityra semifasciata costaricensis, Masked Tityra
17. Mniotilta varia, Black-and-white Warbler
18. Saltator albicollis isthmicus, Streaked Saltator
19. Cyanerpes cyaneus caneipes, Red-legged Honeycreeper
20. Turdus grayi cassius, Clay-colored Thrush
21. Amazilia tzacatl tzacatl, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
22. Manacus v. vitellinus, Golden-collared Manakin
23. Troglodytes aedon inquietus, House Wren, Ratonera
24. Elaenia sp., Elaenia
In the lightly wooded areas between houses, we found:
25. Xiphorhynchus guttatus nanus, Buff-throated Woodcreeper
26. Psarocolius wagleri, Chestnut-headed Oropendola
27. Ramphastos sulfuratus brevicarinatus, Keel-billed Toucan – one feeding in pines here, and another along the road leaving Cerro Azul
28. Piranga flava testacea, Hepatic Tanager
29. Melanerpes rubricapillus wagleri, Red-crowned Woodpecker – several, in tall pines
Leaving Las Nubes and continuing up into Cerro Azul, we had to stop and obtain permission from the guards before driving into this private neighborhood. By now it was mid-afternoon, hot and steamy, and we made a quick stop in a convenience store for water and cookies before continuing on to find the trail along the Rio Mono.
A gravel path wide enough for a vehicle, the trail descended steeply into a dense forest of tall trees and tangled vegetation. Here, the birds were either way up in the treetops, skulking in dense foliage, or flying overhead. As we hiked, we added more to our list:
30. Chlorophanes spiza aguta, Green Honeycreeper – feeding in the top of a Cecropia tree
31. Pipra e. erythrocephala, Golden-headed Manakin - a fleeting look at a spectacular bird
32. Myrmotherula axillaris albigula, White-flanked Antwren
33. Pandion haliaetus, American Osprey
34. Sarcoramphus papa, King Vulture
The trail map indicated a long hike down to Cascada Romeo y Julieta, which we knew we didn’t have time for, so we headed back up the trail to the car. As we drove, yet another garden abundant with flowering shrubs tempted us to stop and add a few more birds:
35. Sporophila americana hicksii, Variable Seedeater
36. Coereba flaveola mexicana, Bananaquit
37. Vireo belli, Bell’s Vireo
38. Myiozetetes similis, ? photo
39. Ortalis cinereiceps, Gray-headed Chachalaca – five, feeding quietly together
Driving Cerro Azul's winding main road back towards the airport, we could see Panama City in the distance, shrouded in purple late-afternoon haze. This little side trip up into the hills was a perfect Panama stop-over, easy, and with plentiful birds. But before we end this chapter, a few more birds seen along the way:
40. Actitis macularia, Spotted Sandpiper – in a little stream
41. Pionus menstruus rubrigularis, Blue-headed Parrot – a flock of 16 very near sundown
42. Leptotila verreauxi, White-tipped Dove
43. Tangara inornata languens, Plain-colored Tanager
That night as we flew onward to Guayaquil, we made our list, and chose our favorite birds of the afternoon. Sue's was the Keel-billed Toucan at Las Nubes, Jorge's was the Golden-headed Manakin along the Romeo y Julieta trail. All in all, a very fun little excursion - at very little extra cost.
Arriving in Guayaquil around midnight, we were met at the airport by Marcos, who drove us directly to our lodgings at Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco, about ten kilometers west of the city. Settling in for the night, we disturbed the resident woodcreeper, who called from time to time from the rafters above our door.
Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco
Cerro Blanco Forest Preserve
Friday March 20th
We lay under mosquito netting in the pre-dawn darkness listening to an incredible chorus of birdsong outside our bamboo home. Nyctibius griseus, the Common Potoo, was easily identifiable as it called from the forest. Then, as our ears adjusted to sounds in the dark, Jorge realized he heard soft footsteps on the porch. He opened the door to a young woman holding binoculars, "Soy Jacqueline, escucha los cantos?" Our guide for the day, Jacqueline Socola, had been politely waiting as we stirred from too little sleep. By the time we gathered up equipment, the dawn chorus was already somewhat diminished.
We dressed for our first morning in the equatorial tropics in full long sleeves despite the warmth, because we knew the mosquitoes would be active - DEET spray on exposed skin also became necessary. Then, with barely enough light in the sky to silhouette the trees, we headed down the path, accompanied by Jacqui's hushed voice pointing out the nearby birds.
Seen along the gravel road near the cabanas:
1. Furnarius cinnamomeus, Pacific Hornero
2. Cyanocorax mystacalis, White-tailed Jay, Urraca Cola-blanca
3. Vireo olivaceus, Red-eyed Vireo
4. Turdus maculirostris, Ecuadorean Thrush
5. Megarhychus pitangua, Boat-billed Flycatcher
6. Myiarchus phaeocephalus, Sooty-crowned Flycatcher
7. Lepidocolaptes souleyetii, Streak-headed Woodcreeper - this was the neighbor in the rafters which we had disturbed when we arrived during the night.
As the light increased, and we progressed along the gravel road towards the trailhead, we had:
8. Dives warszewiczi, Scrub Blackbird
9. Cacicus cela flavicrissus, Ecuadorian Cacique
10. Troglodytes aedon, House Wren
11. Columbina buckleyi buckleyi, Ecuadorian Ground-dove
12. Brotogeris pyrhopteris, Gray-cheeked Parakeet - flock flying overhead
13. Amazona autumnalis, Red-lored Parrot - flock flying overhead
In nearly full morning light now, we walked the short nature trails in the vicinity of the main park buildings, finding:
14. Sporophila corvina, Variable Seedeater
15. Campylorhynchus fasciatus, Fasciated Wren
16. Myiodynastes maculatus, Streaked Flycatcher
17. Glaucidium peruanum, Peruvian Pygmy Owl
18. Saltator striatipectus flavidicollis, Streaked Saltator
19. Crotophaga ani, Smooth-billed Ani
Returning to the main park road, we joined both office staff and trail crews for a fresh made-to-order breakfast in the little open-air cafe. Eggs, cheese, bread and fruit, with that necessary coffee! Now replenished, we were ready for the day's hike up Sendera Canoa. We carried our usual equipment: video camera, still cameras - both DSLR and point-and-shoot, ipod and speaker for playback, field guide, and of course binoculars.
Returning to the main park road, we joined both office staff and trail crews for a fresh made-to-order breakfast in the little open-air cafe. Eggs, cheese, bread and fruit, with that necessary coffee! Now replenished, we were ready for the day's hike up Sendera Canoa. We carried our usual equipment: video camera, still cameras - both DSLR and point-and-shoot, ipod and speaker for playback, field guide, and of course binoculars.
One of the first birds we encountered on the trail was heard but not seen for quite a few minutes as we tried to track it down. We weren't even sure what kind of bird it was by the call, but eventually figured some kind of cuckoo, and called it in closer. This was the first time Jacqueline had seen this bird in Cerro Blanco!
20. Coccyzus lansbergi, Grey-capped Cuckoo
Moving along the trail, higher in elevation and deeper into the forest, we had:
21. Myiopagis flavivertex, Pacific Elaenia - showing very golden-orange crest stripe
22. Pachyramphus albogriseus, Black-and-white Becard
23. Pachyramphus homochrous, One-colored Becard - on nest!
24. Thryothorus superciliatus, Superciliated Wren - responded to playback
25. Coereba flaveola, Bananaquit
26. Thraupis palmarum, Palm Tanager
27. Thraupis episcopus quaesita, Blue-gray Tanager - Western form
28. Molothrus bonariensis, Shiny Cowbird - female
29. Basileuteris luteoviridis, Citrine Warbler
30. Coragyps atratus, Black Vulture
31. Cathartes aura, Turkey Vulture
The trail climbed steadily, descended a bit, then crossed the stream, where we paused to admire butterflies coming in to drink. There were Blue Morphos and many others - yet unidentified by us, and a large tarantula (Theraphosa blondi) sheltering in it's burrow. Just on the other side of the stream was a bronze plaque commemorating the life and work of Ted Parker who did so much for preserving Ecuador's unique natural places.
Returning from the hike we paused to rest and have a snack under a huge Ceibo tree, (Ceiba trichistandra) which Jacqui identified as a good place to watch for tanagers in the early morning. Now, well along in the afternoon, it was pretty quiet. The last bird of the hike was seen in the streambed as we returned to the main park road:
32. Leptotila verreauxi, White-tipped Dove
Next stop was the park office, to say hello and pay our bill. Carmen Marroquin and Tania Rios had helped us plan our Cerro Blanco visit over the phone earlier this month - confirming the taxi from the airport late at night (Carmen's brother Marcos), arranging for our guide Jacqueline Socola (required), for our breakfast, and checking the schedule of flights from Guayaquil to Loja.
The Cabana Ecolodge for two was $20 per night, entrance fee $4 each, guide for the morning $35. I mention 'morning' because we eventually spent the entire day with Jacqui - by the end of the day sipping beer together on the Malecon, watching the city birds settle for the night, and sharing stories of birding and family.
Birds at the park office feeders:
33. Phaethornis baroni, Baron's Hermit
34. Amazilia amazilia, Amazilia Hummingbird
We had to get to Guayaquil to pick up our tickets for the flight to Loja, which Tania had already reserved for us, so Jacqui offered to drive us to the city. Entry doors to the travel agency were manned by armed guards! Business out of the way, we headed to the Malecon, Guayaquil's waterfront park - along the Rio Guayas. A vast boardwalk, with amusements for the kids, restaurants, bars and river tour boats, it was full of city dwellers relaxing on a Friday afternoon.
Birds seen at the Malecon, late afternoon into evening:
35. Fregata magnificens, Magnificent Frigatebird - juvenile
36. Nyctanassa violacea, Yellow-crowned Night Heron
37. Nycticorax nycticorax, Black-crowned Night Heron
38. Casmerodias albus, Great Egret
39. Actitis macularia, Spotted Sandpiper
40. Forpus coelestis, Pacific Parrotlet
41. Quiscalus mexicanus, Great-tailed Grackle
42. Falco sp., by size probably peregrinus, Peregrine Falcon
arroz resaca, arroz con menestra y lomo, patacon
After dinner and a beer on the Malecon, we said goodbye to Jacqui and took a taxi back to Cerro Blanco. Returning along the park road, we flushed a large owl or laughing falcon and a pair of small deer. Finally back home at the Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner Lodge, we relaxed on the balcony and made our bird list for the day. Before sleep, we packed our backpacks for tomorrow and had a much-needed shower!
Birds calling during the night and pre-dawn:
43. Herpetotheres cachinnans, Laughing Falcon
44. Nyctibius griseus, Common or Lesser Potoo
45. Nyctidromus albicollis, Pauraque
Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco's web page:
http://www.bosquecerroblanco.com/
A good, informative article written by Eric Horstman, current director of the preserve:
Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco's web page:
http://www.bosquecerroblanco.com/
A good, informative article written by Eric Horstman, current director of the preserve:
http://www.planeta.com/ecotravel/south/ecuador/cerroblanco.html
Conservation International's Rapid Assessment Program, for which Ted Parker was one of the first biologists:
https://learning.conservation.org/biosurvey/RAP/Pages/default.aspx
And, Conservation International's webpage:
www.conservation.org/Pages/default.aspx
Conservation International's Rapid Assessment Program, for which Ted Parker was one of the first biologists:
https://learning.conservation.org/biosurvey/RAP/Pages/default.aspx
And, Conservation International's webpage:
www.conservation.org/Pages/default.aspx
Saturday March 21st
Another amazing dawn chorus at the Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco... birding within sight of our lodge from 7 to 8am, we saw several repeat species from yesterday, as well as a few new birds:
46. Pheucticus chrysogaster, Southern Yellow Grosbeak
47. Trogon mesurus, Ecuadorian Trogon
48. Polioptila plumbea bilineata, Tropical Gnatcatcher
49. Myiozetetes similis, Social Flycatcher
and in our journal we also mention Swift and Swallow, which we never identified.
The trogon was a good birding experience: as we walked through a garden, Jorge saw a young trogon sitting in a branch, clearly waiting for its parent. Pretty much brown all over, we never could have identified the juvenile had we not finally found the extremely wary adult.
Right on time, Marcos arrived in his new black SUV, with his wife, to take us to the airport. When we talked about our travel plans, they recommended some of their favorite places which we might encounter - Restaurante Dos Chorreras, near Cajas, and, on the drive west on Via la Costa - San Pablo, which has good fresh food and Olon, which is tranquillo. Marcos also gave us some tips for navigating Guayaquil on our own, when we return and plan to rent a car.
Birds seen on the way to the airport:
50. Progne chalybea, Gray-breasted Martin
51. Sicalis flaveola, Saffron Finch
Guayaquil to Loja
The next part of our birding journey through southern Ecuador takes us to Parc Nacional Podocarpus. We will visit the Cajanuma Sector of the park then continue south to Tapichalaca Preserve, nearly on the border with Peru. Two days later we'll be back in Loja, ready for the next segment of the trip.
The flight from Guayaquil to Loja runs just three times each week on TAME (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday), so our timing was perfect. As the plane gained altitude, Ecuador's second largest city, Guayaquil opened out below us and we were able to locate the Malecon, but little else was familiar. Only an hour later, descending to Loja's Catamayo Airport, we passed through a close valley in the brown and green western Andes, over cultivated fields and small towns. At the airport we were prepared to rent a car for the next few days, and ended up with a small pickup truck, which we would be able to return in the city, right near the main bus station.
Within the airport proper, we had a few new birds:
52. Mimus longicaudatus, Long-tailed Mockingbird
53. Columbina cruziana, Croaking Ground-dove
unid, see photo, on antenna at airport
Our Lonely Planet Guide to Ecuador had excellent information for Loja, including street maps, so without getting lost we made our way to the city's big market hall, found a parking spot on the narrow, crowded streets, and took our shopping list inside. There were produce vendors, dry goods vendors, meat, cheeses, bread and spices. It was easy to find everything we needed in the way of food, but for sugar and salt we had to buy a half kilo. We bought cheese, bread, oranges, bologna, tuna, rice, jam, tea and water.
At another shop we picked up rubber boots, then began the search for a gas cannister for our little Doite camp stove. Rather than move the car we walked - stopping in each likely-looking shop, then continuing to the place recommended by that shopkeeper, nothing, nothing, until finally we found a guy who could sell us a new stove AND gas - for thirty bucks. At least we had an option if we couldn't find what we needed anywhere else.
As we walked the sidewalk out of town to our last hope for stove gas, we had a small group of:
Forpus coelestis, Pacific Parrotlet
So, the last place to check was the SuperMaxi at the south end of town -- and finally, nothing, so we hoofed it back to the army surplus before he shuttered up at 3pm, and shelled out the $30. A quick foodshopping trip in a new town is usually fun, but when it drags on the way it did this afternoon, it's a relief to be done with, and on our way.
So, Southward! The Cajanuma entrance to Podocarpus is less than 30 minutes from downtown Loja, and is marked by an exuberantly painted archway-tunnel. Rising steadily from the bottom of Loja's Cuxibamba valley, the dirt road climbs through pastures and pine plantations. We paused briefly at a good-looking little pond, hoping for grebes or rails with playback - nothing, nary a squawk!
The afternoon sky was cloudy, with rain expected tonight - indeed we're in the southern Ecuadorean Andes at the beginning of the rainy season! As the road climbed the 8km up to Parc Nacional Podocarpus we splashed through puddles of yesterday's rain and skirted the run-off of roadside waterfalls. Leaving pastures behind, now we pass through scrubby forest hugging the steep mountainsides, with cliffs rising above to the left, and dropping below, to the right.
Occasional roadside pull-outs allow for time to admire the view and chase a few birds:
a. Pearled Treerunner
b.
c.
Arriving at the Ranger Station at the Cajanuma Entrance to the park, we step out of the truck in cool mountain air, heavy with humidity. We pay the national park entrance fee, which is good for five days within Podocarpus - this is a huge park, and we'll be here less than twenty-four hours. Staying at the headquarters building for the weekend is a group of biology students from one of the Universities in Loja. A young woman greets me in english, and along with the ranger, introduces us to the trail system accessible from this point.
We grab the essentials: rain gear and cameras, don our new boots, and head up the nature trail close to the parking lot. Interpretive signs explain the significance of the Podocarpus trees Romerillo, order Pinales
Shopped in Loja for provisions for the next few days and continued south, in a rental truck, to the Cajanuma entrance of Podocarpus National Park, where, after meeting the park staff, we had time to explore a short trail and set up our tent before nightfall.
Sunday March 22nd found us up early, packed, and on the trail for an amazing day of hiking through cloud-forest and high-altitude paramo. Total species count was low, but we had some pretty special birds up at 3300 meters. Late afternoon continued south, in off-and-on rain, passing through Vilcabamba on our way to the Jocotoco Foundation’s Tapichalaca Preserve. Navigating dirt roads on steep mountainsides in rainy season after dark – a recipe for adventure.
Monday March 23rd we shared a rare birding experience, meeting the Jocotoco Antpittas and the people who look out for them. Another rainy off-and-on day, with low total species counts, but abundant hummingbirds at the lodge feeders and fantastic mixed flocks of tanagers foraging in the treetops.
Tuesday March 24th due back in Loja mid-day, so we enjoy a more leisurely drive back north, daylight this time, and not quite as much rain. Board an afternoon bus to Cuenca
Wednesday March 25th, a cloudy morning in Cuenca Quito and Guayaquil , Cuenca is the third largest city in Ecuador
Thursday March 26th, packed early and on the road to Cajas National Park , 40km west of Cuenca Guayaquil
Friday March 27th we awake just meters from the beach in the tiny village of Montanita Machalilla National Park
Saturday March 28th, up early to see a few dry forest specialties at Agua Blanca before our offshore trip to Isla de la Plata. Our island guide is Freddy, a knowledgeable, self-taught naturalist, who gives us the special extended tour, so that we can see all three species of Booby which breed on the island. Back to the mainland at 5, and on the road back to Guayaquil
Sunday March 29th, enjoyed another dawn chorus at the Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner Lodge at Cerro Blanco, arranged our backpacks and carry-on bags, and left our second-hand tripod at the guardhouse for Jacqueline. Then, dodging street vendors selling little Ecuadorian flags for the big game against Brazil today, we made our way back to the airport for the return flight to New York
Ten days, 187 species of birds identified so far, 6 hours of videotape to enjoy (and edit), 4000 photos to organize (and edit), and lots of memories of beautiful places and people to keep.
SURINAME 20 de Noviembre al 21 de Diciembre del 2005
SURINAME 20 de Noviembre al 21 de Diciembre del 2005
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